Storing Winter Boots!

You've got to check out this innovative idea from Jen over at iheartorganizing- Storing boots in the winter time!


One of the very best reasons to live in the tundra, is to acquire tundra gear. You know, hats, mittens, snow pants, bulky jackets and boots. It's awesome. Sensing my sarcasm?


Anyone who has to deal with the cold weather gear, knows what I am talking about. And storing it all in a pretty way isn't the easiest thing to do. Sure, we use our coat closet for the coats and snow pants. But our coat closet is in our kitchen. And because it's placed above our stairs to the lower level, it's only a half closet with zero room for boots.


When we put up our tree, we moved the white table out for awhile. Once the tree came down and we brought the table back in, I had a moment. One of those fabulous "Ah Ha!" moments. The kind where you can't focus on anything else until you test out your idea.




We had an old leather storage bench in our guest bedroom that we used to stash away linens.


I knew that the leather bench would fit under the white table perfectly, since it lived there once before long ago. But what I was really hoping was that our large boot tray that was living in the garage {it was too big for our entry once our shoe cabinet came in}, would actually conveniently fit inside the bench. Yes, yes it did!


So I spent $2 at Home Depot on some River Stone...

Popped that fantastic tray inside the bench:






Dumped in the rocks {the rocks keep the boots up off of the tray so the snow can melt down}:

And placed our boots inside! {My kids were at school while this was taking place, with their winter boots on, so I used mine with a couple other pairs, just to share the example}.





The tray itself actually perfectly holds my boots along with my three boy's winter boots {for a total of four pairs}. My hubs giant boots live on a shelf in the garage, since he really only uses them for shoveling.

Then, the best part, shutting the lid, keeping those boots concealed and sliding it under the table!

Who you have know that the bench was full of boots? Me either! That's the best part!

The kid's don't mind this either as it's better than previous options. We used to keep the green tray in the garage and tried keeping the boots out there too but that meant the kids taking them through the whole house and then the boots would freeze overnight, so that didn't last long. Sometimes being tidy and organized comes with the discipline of putting things away. I like the fact that the clutter is now concealed since our area is so small and it's also open to our living room/dining room/kitchen.

Update: Some readers have questioned the wet combined with lack of air issue. Although the bench is not airtight, I am still planning on popping a box of baking soda inside and cracking the lid overnight.

http://www.redwhiteandbrush.com/

Giving your Boots that Military Shine!

A step-by-step guide on how to shine your boots from the experts over at Hot Boots!

Have you ever noticed the sunlight bounce off his boots in a dazzling array of light? Perhaps you've been in a bar or some other social environment and have seen the light dance across his boots as it might on a calm summer's day shimmering across the top of a lake.

The following procedure will show you how to create that mirror glass finish which inevitably draws your eyes to it.

Before we begin, here is a list of things you will need. In this case we'll be dealing with black boots since it seems to be the largest shade (its a shade not a color really) out there. The concepts held within can be applied to other shades of polished boots as well.

List of supplies needed:
1 horse hair brush (usually 2.0 - 2.5 inch across, and 6 - 8 inches long)
1 regular brush (usually same size as horse hair, might be slightly bigger)
3 100% cotton cloths (Cotton is important. It must be soft, otherwise you will scratch the finish of your polishing)
2L Warm-Hot Water (Separate it into 1 part and 3 parts)
1 squirt of dish soap (1 squirt is all ya need. You'll be mixing it with the 3 parts water)
1 hairdryer (I do realize it sounds funny)
1 tin Kiwi Black Polish (I prefer Kiwi, but if you have different polish that's your fav, no biggie)
1 tin Kiwi Black Parade Polish
1/4 cup white vinegar
1 container leather conditioner (I tend to use Lexol)
1 container saddle soap
1 tooth brush.


Let us begin!

Day #1.

The first thing you need to know is whether the boots are brand new or if they've walked around the block. If they have walked around the block, the boots will require some added steps.


Cleaning NEW boots:

They come with a finish on them. It is generally a good idea to leave this finish ON. Let's begin with the cleaning process. Chances are the boots have been in the box a bit if they're new or they've collected some dirt/dust from sitting around. First thing is to pull this stuff off. There are a couple of options.

You can either use mild dish soap or you can use saddle soap. Ensure that you have plenty of water on hand to dilute the soap and also to rinse afterwards. Some may opt to use a small brush. It works well at getting into the crevaces of the boot. You don't want to use too much dish soap. Just use a quick squirt and swish it around so you get some bubbles.

Start cleaning your boot with the brush. Make sure you get all the excess bits of dirt off. Whatever you leave on the boot after they have dried will end up underneath the coats of wax. You don't want that, so give them a good once over. Do the soles, too, if you like. When I do boots I start top to bottom and front to back.

Next we need to rinse off any soap. If you've used saddle soap make sure that there isn't any excess left on the boot. We'll swap the soapy water for clean water and rinse away all the excess.


Stripping USED boots:

Now we get to the part for boots that have been used....the stripping part. NO there's isn't a big butch man jumping in front of you gettin' ready to strip. Skip the following steps if your boots are new.

Using one of the cloths, begin rubbing the boots with the vinegar. I use it straight. You will notice as you rub that the leather will become duller and duller. The reason is that your pulling off the layers of wax that have accumulated. You may not want to pull ALL layers off, maybe just the top two or three. If your boots have scuffs in the wax. keep rubbing until the scuffs are gone. (Hopefully the scuffs haven't penetrated down to the leather itself).

Now we need to rinse off the boots. We don't want the vinegar staying on the boot, as its an acid, which will eat away at the leather. Allow the boots to completely dry.

Note #1. Some people opt for rubbing alcohol instead of vinegar. Its fine, but remember to use a lot more conditioner, after allowing to dry. Alcohol, as I'm sure we can all attest to, dehydrates (removes water), that's why we get hang overs.

Note #2. If you live in a winter environment sometimes the salts from the slush and slit will build, or if you have particularly sweaty feet, sometimes the salts from the sweat can penetrate throught the leather, leaving white crusty deposits on the boots, The vinegar/alcohol will help remove the salt.


Conditioning - for both NEW and USED boots:

Once the boots are dry and clean, we will apply our leather conditioner. Use as much as you like, but a good sign is, the faster the leather dries, the more conditioner is needed, Have you ever heard of OVER-moisturing your leather? Its possible, but you'll notice that the conditioner will sit on top of the leather without being absorbed if you get to that stage. Simply wipe away the excess.

So we have nice clean boots now. They're ready for polishing.


Polishing Part #1.

Remove your boot laces if you're polishing lace ups.

Take the second cloth (be careful not to use cloth with the vinegar on it) and begin applying the normal grade polish. It doesn't really matter how it goes on at this point; however circles are best. Cover the entire boot. It might take you a few minutes to do this. Once you have covered the boot, let it stand. We need to give the polish some bonding time to the leather. Now do the second boot. Same principal applies.

Now let's go watch TV for a while. Give the boots about 40 to 60 minutes to sit.

You'll note that the polish has a dull look, and if you touch it, it should be dry. Take the first brush, the coarser of the two, and begin brushing. There's no method to the madness, just begin brushing. Make sure you get in the cracks and tongues of the boot. As you brush your arms to death the polish will begin coming off. Keep brushing, until the boot shines as much as you can get it to shine. It doesn't matter which way you brush, but don't brush too hard or you'll pull off ALL the wax you just put on, and you don't want to do that. Now brush the other boot until it shines as much as you can get it to shine.

Let the boots stand now for at least 2 - 4 hours. We need to give the polish time to harden on top of the leather.


Polishing Part #2.

Part #2 is identical to Part #1; the same process exactly. I usually do the procedure twice. What we're doing here is building layers. The more layers we have...the better we are. It'll stop a lot of the scuffing that happens, especially in the bars and outdoors from contacting with the leather.


Polishing Part #3

The last thing we do here before we move on is take the tooth brush and cover it in polish. We run it around the base of the leather where it meets the sole. Brush away the excess.


Day #2

Part #1.

This day is almost like Day #1 except we switch brushes. Now we use the horse hair brush. With this brush I will put three more layers of polish on the boots. Use the same process as before. You might be thinking...well... why a seperate day. Well hey...if your arms can do it all in 1 day..then be my guest. Don't forget to let the polish harden in between coats or to allow for some bonding time.

Part #2.

There is one big difference in this stage though. Remember that hair dryer? Well for the last 2 coats of polish on this day we apply the polish in circles, small circles about 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter. Then we use the hair dryer to melt the wax smooth, because it is almost next to impossible to apply polish evenly. We need to start getting the coats of wax as smooth as possible.

So, to review, for the first coat you use the normal brush, for the second coat you use the horse hair brush and for the third coat use the hair dryer and horse hair brush.


Day #3 - last day.

Adding the mirror glass finish

We have what I call a semi-shine now, but still not the mirror glass finish we want. Now we take the high grade polish (parade) and begin applying it using cloth #3. Use it sparingly. Dab the polish, dab warm water, make small, small circles on your boots. Grip the cloth between your index and middle finger. Pull it tight and begin working in small areas. Add more water if the shine goes dull. Add more polish if there are beads of water on the leather. You're creating friction between the polish and polish using water. Keep going. Your finger will probably get sore, but keep on going...adding more polish, adding more water, rubbing, rubbing, in constant little circles (kinda like the wipe on, wipe off from Karate Kid).

You have one last thing to do if you have lace ups before you put your laces back in. Often with black laces, the outer threading breaks a bit and you see the white interior. To fix this, take a relatively large clump of normal polish in between layers of one of the dirty clothes, and run your laces through the polish. Press the cloth with your fingers and slide the laces through the middle. Now your laces are back to being black. If the white hasn't started to poke through, then there's no need to do this.

After all this is done, put your laces back into the boots.


There you have it. You can now marvel at your own achievement of well polished boots.


Now for a couple of interesting notes:

1. If your not going to wear your boots right away, take the last cloth you used and spray it with a bit of water (mist), and set the cloth to cover the boots. This will help keep the dust from accumulating on your boots. If you forget, take that cloth and spray it with mist water and do a quick wipe. That should do the trick.

2. There are the US version and UK/Canadian version of boot polishing. The two versions are almost identical with the exception that in the US they remove all layers of polish periodically and begin fresh, while in the UK and Canada they build on previous layers, almost never removing layers unless absolutely necessary.




Hey, if y'all have any more ideas on boot polishing, let me now so I can incorporate them here.

http://www.redwhiteandbrush.com/

Eight Secrets from a Shoe Repair Shop

Here are Eight Secrets from a Shoe Repair Shop that everyone should know, provided by Woman'sDay.

Every woman knows how hard it is to find that perfect pair of shoes that both looks and feels amazing. So when you finally do get the holy grail of footwear, you want to extend its life as long as possible. Whether you found your dream pumps, sneakers you could live in or ballet flats you wear every day, we asked the pros what they wish their customers knew about shoe care.

1. Head to the cobbler before you start wearing new shoes. 
When it comes to extending the life of your shoes, preventive care can do wonders. Before you hit the streets with a new pair of leather-soled shoes (or even after one or two initial wears), ask your shoe repairperson to have rubber soles put on. "Leather wears down very quickly," says David Mesquita, owner of Leather Spa in New York City. "Thin rubber soles, which are available in many colors, will blend right in with your heels or flats. Not only will they prevent the leather from wearing down, but they'll also keep water from seeping into the soles, which can travel to the upper part of the shoe and create even more damage."

2. Don't buy shoes to fix them up.
A great pair of vintage pumps can seem like a steal, but when it comes to old kicks, it's not worth it to have them repaired. Dried out leather and worn-in soles make them nearly impossible to restore affordably. "It's like fixing up an old car," says Mesquita. "You'll repair A, and then B breaks down. Then you repair B, and C falls apart. It's an endless cycle because you're making one part stronger, and then the other parts of the shoe weaken in comparison."

3. There's a little wiggle room when it comes to shoe size.
Don't forgo a fabulous pair of shoes just because they're a tad snug or a bit too loose. If the size is too tight, many cobblers can make them fit. Stretching machines can increase length and width (though extending length is most successful on flat shoes), as well as stretch specific areas, like too-tight toes. On the other hand, if you're slipping around in your shoes, inner soles, tongue pads and heel grips can tighten up the fit. Similarly, tall boots can be altered to a degree: Too-loose pairs can be taken in, while snug ones can be stretched about 1/2 inch in the calf, says Randy Lipson, third-generation cobbler and co-owner of Cobblestone Quality Shoe Repair in St. Louis. But, warns Mesquita, "if you're in the store and can slip your finger into the heel, don't bother buying them. I have customers who come in having bought shoes on sale, then spend $30 on pads and they still aren't comfortable."

4. Steer clear of gel shoe pads.
Sure, they seem comfortable at first—especially on sore, swollen feet—but according to Lipson, gel inserts aren't the way to go. "Within a month they won't feel so comfortable anymore. The material spreads out and breaks down, leaving little cushion between your foot and the sole." Another material to avoid is latex foam, which also deteriorates quickly. Instead, he recommends buying pads made with long-lasting Poron, which is used in high-end orthotics. Foot Petals offers a variety of pads made with Poron in fun colors and patterns.

5. Weatherproof your shoes often.
When it's raining or snowing, give your shoes a spritz of water repellent—unless stated, these products aren't meant for just a one-time application. Mesquita, who even gives his sneakers a spray on stormy days, advises looking for sprays with nanotechnology, like Nanopro. The fine particles in the mist ensure that you won't overspray your shoes, giving materials like leather a chance to breathe and retain their texture. If shoes are visibly dirty it’s a good idea to clean them before spraying. To clean leather or suede you can use a soft cloth or sponge along with cleaners that are designed specially for the material.

Nervous about spraying your new shoes? "In my 20 years in business I've never seen shoes change color with weatherproofing," he reassures. Still, spot testing is a smart way to make sure you won't stain the material.

6. You can significantly extend the life of your heels—as long as you know what to ask for.
Any stiletto-wearer is familiar with the inevitable "click clack" that comes when the heel tip falls off. And unfortunately, due to the way that style of shoe is made, this happens more quickly than most of us would like—often after just a few wears. To avoid the endless cycle of getting these bits replaced (which is essential, because walking on the exposed metal can cause damage to the entire heel over time), know what kind of heel caps to ask for. The best—and newest—brand is called Magna, which is made with liquid polyurethane so they're more comfortable and shock absorbing than the competition. Another quality brand to ask for is Avanti, which also uses polyurethane. According to Lipson, well-made heel caps can last three to four times longer than poorly constructed ones.

7. Use the shoe bags that came with your pair.
There's a reason many shoes come with their own storage case—by keeping them in the soft bag between wears, you can prevent structural damage. "When you store shoes in hot or dry places (like a plastic bin), the leather can dry up and start cracking," says Eduard Shimunov, owner of Cobbler Express in New York City. So keep your pairs away from sunny spots and heating vents to keep the material intact. Another way to keep leather crack-free is by applying leather conditioner, which will preserve the material's integrity. Lipson recommends Lexol leather conditioner, which can be found at most shoe repair shops.

8. Know what you can do at home—and what you can't.
For fixes like stretching, or anything to do with the soles, you'll want to bring your shoes to a pro to avoid costly mistakes. But there are a few DIY fixes that anyone can do. According to Mesquita, patent leather can be polished with glass cleaner, like Windex, and tiny nicks can be filled in with a dab of similarly colored nail polish. To remove salt stains from shoes, he recommends mixing one part white vinegar with three parts water and then using a paper towel to dab the solution onto the stained area. As the solution dries, he says, it will evaporate the salt. And baby powder will absorb oil stains—just steer clear if your shoes are suede.

Read more: Shoe Advice - Footwear Tips from Cobblers at WomansDay.com - Woman's Day 

Chelsea Boots

Ellen Page wearing sleek Chelsea boots to the Oscars!

The bone inlay on this boot is incredible! This boot screams timeless.

You've got to love this rugged, classy leather boot from Frye X Coach.

Caring for your Boots

So you've just forked over a sizable amount of your pay check for a killer new pair of boots? Follow these steps from Sheplers to keep your investment lasting forever:





Wipe off the Dust

Remember that leather is skin and will react the way skin does so the most important thing you can do in caring for any piece of leather footwear is to keep it free of dust. Dust will settle into the creases of boots. The dust acts like sandpaper cutting the finish with every step you take. Sooner or later it will cut through not only the finish but the fiber itself and the leather will split. So, wipe off your boots often, not just before you shine them, but every time you take them off. Wipe the dust off with anything you have handy, you do not need a special brush or cloth. You do need to make this a habit, you cannot wipe them off too often.

Wash off Loose Dirt
Boots need a good cleaning and conditioning every so often, Begin by removing loose dirt and dried mud with a damp cloth, followed by a good brushing of the boot.

Apply a Quality Conditioner

While the leather is still moist, apply a lather conditioner. Once it has dried, it should be buffed with a soft cloth. The final step is to apply a boot cream to the boot and buff. As a pointer on the boot cream color, choose a cream a shade or two darker then the color of the boot. Leathers fade slightly as they age and this will return them to their original color. You should use a matching color cream with new boots. Never mix brushes! Keep brushes for each color of polish with that particular brush.

Exotic Leathers especially reptiles have deeper textures that do not absorb conditioner and cream as quickly. Apply these in several thin layers rather then all at once. Apply conditioner to snakes gently against scales then rub down with scale direction. You should never let snakeskin boots to dry out.

Harder surface exotics like lizard and alligator require a little more time in keeping dust and dirt out of the tiles especially in the folds as boots age. The life of the boot is greatly extended by keeping them clean and conditioned. Be sure to brush conditioner all the way to the sole line. Many people forget that area of the boot and it can cause the boot to crack and pull away at the sole. If the boot has a leather sole, it should also be conditioned. This increases the life of the sole because it restores moisture, which deters cracking.

Stubborn stains may require a little extra work to remove. Sticky spots such as dried soda or alcohol can be removed by using a solution of equal parts of water and vinegar. Most scuffs and marks can be removed with a pencil eraser. It is important to remember that when conditioning or if the boots get wet, you need to allow them to dry away from direct heat.

Boot wax is not really necessary except where a spit shine is needed. The wax can be applied over the cream. You can use saddle soap if you do not let it dry on the boots and you do not rub it in. Saddle soap should be wiped off wet. Mink oil is another product frequently used. It will waterproof the boots, but also seals the pores and eventually causes cracking. It is not recommended for boots.

One final thing to remember is that wax is water based and will dry out boots. A coat of cream should always be applied first.

http://www.redwhiteandbrush.com/